The Best Most Terrible Race

Each summer, a handful of plucky sailors square off in one of the world's most unsung regattas -- a marathon contest across Great Slave and back. The lake usually wins. Story and photos by Katharine Sandiford.

I Learned the Hard Way

Visits to the North usually go well. But sometimes, they go to hell -- "that's no porcupine, it's a grizzly cub!" Here are 17 secrets from our experts to living through, and loving, your trip.