It’s the sense of history that hits you. That and the unpredictability of the Far North – where nothing goes as planned.
We didn’t expect to sweat in 32-degree heat. Neither did we expect to shiver in near-freezing temperatures the next morning. We didn’t expect the jaw-dropping beauty of Virginia Falls, the glimpse of exotic birds or a star-studded church in Fort Good Hope. And we didn’t expect the tapestry of family ties that threaded our trip. But this was the Mackenzie River, a wild and unpredictable force that holds many surprises for all that tread its water. This was not so much a cruise, as a voyage of discovery.
When we first saw the MS Norweta, we didn’t even think it could so much as make it up the river. The ungainly riverboat has been taking passengers along Canada’s longest river since 1992 – despite the boat looking more fit for a novelty seafood restaurant than great river voyages.
One of our first stops is Fort Simpson, the oldest continuously occupied trading centre on the river. Here the water is accented with multi-coloured stripes as the mud-filled Liard River meets with the glacial green of the Mackenzie.
The water moves fast around us, but time moves slowly. Aboard the Norweta it seems as if this vessel – the entire river even – is a family affair. Terry Camsell runs the boat. His brother Fred, who has spent most of his life travelling the river, interprets the scenes and landscapes that we see from the ship’s deck.
As we move downstream, a veritable Camsell family tree lines the riverbank, from graveyards to landmarks and local stories.
The Mighty River
The Mackenzie River is the second largest river in North America and the ninth largest in the world.
At 4,250 km long, the Mackenzie travels northward through the Northwest Territories before fanning out into the Mackenzie Delta and emptying into the Beaufort Sea. Along the river you can see more than 170 different species of birds, making the Mackenzie one of the best-preserved wildlife habitats in the world. Named Deh Cho (Big River) by the Dene, the Mackenzie has served as a vital artery for commerce and travel for 6,000 years.
Hay River
Your launching point for any adventure up the Mackenzie River, Hay River offers plenty to do while you wait for your seaworthy chariot to depart. Stroll the many sandy beaches along the shores of Great Slave Lake and watch the midnight sun flirt with the horizon.
Fort Providence
The nearby Bison sanctuary gives viewers the opportunity to see this majestic animal. There’s also good camping along the river’s edge here.
Jean Marie River
Stop off at this historic trading post and check out traditional Slavey arts and crafts like porcupine and moose hair tufting.
Fort Simpson
Rolling water, jagged peaks and rugged trails can all be found here. For a full day, visit the historic cabin of famed prospector Albert Faille, then finish the evening with a round of golf at the Seven Spruce Golf Course.
Wrigley
Photographers rejoice. The famous Roche Qui Trempe a L’eau (mountain with its feet in the water) is an unforgettable photo opp.
Tulita
Dene for ‘where the two rivers meet,’ Tulita allows a traveller the opportunity to segue up the Great Bear River.
Norman Wells
With it’s friendly atmosphere and beautiful scenery, ‘The Wells’ offers a little something for everyone. History buffs will love searching for WWII relics on the Canol Trail, and pre-history buffs can hunt for fossils in near-by canyons.
Fort Good Hope
Stop in at the local Anglican Church and marvel at the magnificent fresco painted by missionaries in the 1800s.
Tsiigehtchic
The traditional Gwich’in way of life is alive and well here. Set up camp, and don’t forget to sample the local dryfish.
Inuvik
The largest Canadian city north of the Arctic Circle, Inuvik is always buzzing with excitement. Visit the unique Our Lady of Victory Igloo Church, and before you leave don’t forget to pick up a certificate awarded to anyone who crosses the Arctic Circle.
Tuktoyaktuk
Thanks to the local permafrost a curious geographical oddity can be found near the community more commonly known as Tuk. Conical hills named pingos are ice-cored hills that dot the landscape. Numbering around 1,450 on the Tuktoyaktuk Peninsula, they can’t be missed.
